Cuts, Scratches, Bruises and the perfect black eye

Bruises and Black Eyes-

Step By Step-

• After applying your foundation and setting it with a powder take kryolan supracolour palette
• Choose a red, purple, blue and yellow. (preference)
• Begin by using a small precision brush, apply the purple to the inner corners of the eye and the lash lines. 
• Using a similar brush, take the red and apply over the purple and extend to the eyelid and beyond the inner eye. 
• Using the yellow, apply in the very corner of the eye and above the crease
• Smudge with your finger to blend. 

Evaluation

I think my black eye/bruise looks pretty realistic even if it is a very small black eye. 

I think I could have blended the colors down a bit more which would have made the overall appearance of the black eye look better. I need to do some research into black eyes because I would like to use this technique in my Estella assessment. 

Scratches-

Step by step-

• Due to having to use latex products, you MUST ask your model/client if they are allergic. If they say yes DO NOT use any latex products on them. If they say no- do a patch test (back of wrist) and wait 20 minutes. If there is no reaction you can proceed with the task.
• Using latex or duo lash glue, apply a small amount to a sponge and dab over desired area.
• Dry using a hair dryer on COOL setting only. Ensure your model is comfortable with this.
• Once the first application is complete, re apply the latex or duo glue and dry once again.
• Repeat this step as desired.
• Using a mascara wand- start to pull and poke at the latex to open it or cut it to create the appearance of a scratch. 
• apply kryolan supracolour in red/deep red or purple to make the scratch look red and sore.

Evaluation-

I enjoy the special effects side of Make Up. I feel as though I can be as crazy as I want. 

Creating life like scratches was fun. I think I need to make the scratches go long ways rather than as circles which is the way they kept going. Overall I am happy, I just need to brush up on my technique!

Cuts-

Step By Step-

Due to having to use latex products, you MUST ask your model/client if they are allergic. If they say yes DO NOT use any latex products on them. If they say no- do a patch test (back of wrist) and wait 20 minutes. If there is no reaction you can proceed with the task.

Using latex or duo lash glue, apply a small amount to a sponge and dab over desired area.

Add a single strand of tissue paper over the latex 

Use a hairdryer on cool to dry.

Repeat the above steps until the desired depth is created.

Using tweezers or small, nail scissors. Gently cut down the middle of the latex to create the cut like wound. Open up with fingers (make it look rough) 

Using fake blood, glycerin and supra color apply to make the wound bloody, red, sore and bruised. 

Allow time to dry thoroughly- do not let your model move the area you have just worked on- these products will stain! 

Evaluation-

My cut is definitely dramatic- more appropriate for stage/theater. 

I need to work on getting the depth of the cut correct which is through shading around the wound area. I also think my edges were quite rough and just stopped which is not good. 

I do like how my blood/glycerin mix sits in the cut.  

Historical Victorian Hair

Early Victorian

Step By Step

• Section off the front parts of the hair (fringe)
• brush through to ensure there are no knots or tangles.
• Using a pin tale comb section off a small part of the hair and using a heated up curling iron (small barrel) begin to curl the hair. Use pin tale comb to tuck in any strays.
• leave the hair on the curling iron for 15 seconds and let go.
• roll back up using your fingers and secure with a bobby pin to set.

Evaluation-

When I was watching Helen create this look I though it would be relatively easy and it is... once I had gotten the hang of it. I re did the sections 3 times because I was unhappy with the results. 

I find hair a struggle so I was happy when I finally got the hang of this. 

Late Victorian

Step by step-

• brush hair through to ensure there are no knots.
• Using a pin tale comb, section off the front part of the hair (fringe)
• Clip the hair away from the rest and save for later. 
• Using the remaining hair, section off half to create the appearance of half up half down.
• Secure the top half with a hair bobble. 
• Using hair curlers (small barrel) begin to curl the FRONT section of the hair you previously pinned back. Do this in sections making sure the hair is evenly split into 3/4
• Hold irons onto the hair for 15 seconds and gently pull to the right ensuring the curl stays in. Secure the curl with a bobby pin (the curl should look like its in a roller)
• once you have done all the sections at the front, spray with hair spray and leave to set. 
• Using the pony tail, begin to curl the hair in sections and pin them to create a bun effect (not perfectly rounded like a doughnut)
• Unpin the front sections of the hair and place them in the desired areas.
• Using the remaining hair at the bottom, Curl and pin into place as desired.

Evaluation

I am extremely pleased with this finished look! I really enjoyed re creating a late victorian hair style and the end results clearly show my enthusiasm for the task payed off well. The only points I feel have let me down is the sections of hair could be a little cleaner and have less fly away's and also the front of the hair is not symmetrical both sides.

Theatrical Aging/Creping of the skin

Theatrical Aging- 

Step By Step-

• Consult with your model- my model had oily skin. 
• Cleanse, tone and moisturize the skin. 
• Choose a suitable foundation base
• Firstly, choose a product suitable for creating dark lines (I used supra color mixed)
• Taking a small brush with a little product on and ask your model to frown
• Apply the product to all the lines that appear on the face; Forehead, nose, around the lips, eyes and chin and neck.
• Blend well.
• Taking a lighter color (supra white mixed with foundation) apply above and below the dark line you have just created. 
• I take a step back from my work to see if the aging has been effective. 
• Eyebrows- using a white and yellow mix of supra color and a mascara wand apply the product to the brows in a motion that works against the hair. 
• Use the above product mix to apply to the eyelashes.
• Using tooth enamel- apply to the desired teeth (ensure your model is ok with his process)
• Using a dark red/purple and a texture sponge apply some redness to the skin 

Evaluation-

I really enjoyed re learning the aging technique. I have done this once before in a previous course and the refresher really helped. I think my model looks well and truly aged! 

I think my lines/wrinkles need a bit more work, particularly under the eyes and around the mouth.
I love the eyebrows and nose on this application, I think they look very realistic!

Face Charts and Annotation

Product List

Make Up/Tools-

• Kryolan Foundation Palette 
• Kyrolan Supracolour
• Kryolan Aqua Colour
• Kryolan Eye shadow Palette
• Kryolan Concealer Palette
• Kryolan Lip Palette
• Ben Nye Pressed Powder Palette
• Ben Nye Lip Palette
• Kryolan Glamour glow palette
• Illamasqua Reflections palette
• Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation
• Illamasqua Matte Primer
• MAC LIP MIX Collection
• Duo Lash Glue
• Latex
• Non Latex Adhesive
• Glycerin
• Wound Filler
• Liquid Blood
• Witch Hazel
• Cleanser, Toner, Moisturizer
• Baby Buds
• Full Brush Roll
• Couch Roll
• Cotton Pads
• Mascara Wands
• Towel/Cape

Hair-

• Pin tale combs
• paddle brush
• Hair brush
• wide tooth comb
• bobby pins
• grips
• pins
• Curling Irons
• Straighteners
• Hair Dryer
• Towel/Cape
• Hair spray
• Colour Hair Spray
• 
  

Consultation Notes

Teri

Skin Type- Combination skin, oily T zone/dryness on cheeks

Blemishes- Darkness under eyes. Odd spots/pimples around the chin.

Medical- No Medical.. No known Allergies. No open wounds or contagious facial/skin/eye infections. No Latex Allergies. PATCH TEST DONE

Kerry-

Skin Type- Combination, Oily forehead, dryness around the nose.

Blemishes- Darkness under the eyes, large pores around the nose.

      Medical- No current medications. No Allergies. SENSITIVE SKIN! Unable to use the following studio products.. Cleanser, Toner and Moisturizer (University supply)

No open wounds, No contagious skin, facial or eye infections.

Preferably NO GELATIN around the mouth- Vegetarian. 

No Latex Allergy- PATCH TEST DONE

Georgina-

Skin Type- normal skin- minimal dryness around the nose. 

Blemishes- Dark under eyes,

Medications- No current medications. No open wounds, No Contagious facial, skin or eye infections.

LATEX ALLERGY. Latex Free Products ONLY! 

Contents Page

r  List of products/materials used throughout unit

r  Annotated Face Charts with list of products used – reflection on appropriateness

r  Photographs of trials in studio (test shots), with evidence of working on 3 different models

ALL Technical Notes including:

r  Consultation notes used in studio

r  Theatrical ageing/Creping of the skin

r  Historical Victorian hair

r  Cuts, scratches, bruises and the perfect black eye

r  Victorian hair style-Estelle and Miss Havisham

r  Practice look of Miss Havisham both hair and make up technical classes

r  Burns, how to recreate, with different products

r  Creating Miss Havisham  ,continuity image.

r  Creating Estelle image

r  Creating light scaring, using molds ,how to attach to the skin, how to colour

r  Dark eyes and lips.

r  Contemporary Victorian Hair styles, inspired by American horror